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black sesame caramel walnut bars (and black sesame fudge)

Last year a few lovely friends sent me a care package from a new-to-me bakery in Brooklyn called Patisserie Tomoko. There were little yuzu-scented cookies, perfect macarons, and pudgy mochi filled with red bean and Earl Grey chocolate truffle, all of which were perfect, but my favorite of the assortment was a little stack of black sesame caramel nut sandwiches. A chewy, fudgy layer of black sesame caramel, studded with walnut pieces and nestled between two thin blankets of crumbly shortbread, it was a combination I’d never thought to try but that worked so well together, sweet and smoky and a little bit savory all in one.

So, being on the other side of the country from Patisserie Tomoko, once I nibbled the last of those cookie sandwiches it was only a matter of time before I tried making them at home. Rather than fiddle with a top and bottom layer of shortbread, these bars take their cues instead from Erin Clarkson’s perfect New Zealand “slices” (a name I just love) and have just the one crisp layer of shortbread as a base, which bakes while you make the black sesame caramel. I added some rye flour to the shortbread to match the earthiness of the walnuts and black sesame, and a touch of white chocolate to the caramel, an ingredient that seems to crop up in a number of caramel fudge recipes out on the Internet, to help it set up easier and give it a fudgier texture. And last but not least, chunky, deeply toasted walnut pieces go in for crunch and a slightly bitter bite to offset the creamy richness of the rest.

The result is so luxurious, decadent but with a little whimsy, by turns smooth and caramelized and toasty and crisp. It’s perfect for cutting into little cubes to treat yourself whenever you need an afternoon pick-me-up, or full-fledged slices for a celebratory dessert. I think it would fit right into a holiday dessert spread–it freezes beautifully, so you could make it now and have it ready on feast day with no fuss. Or, if you’re wanting something quick and easy, you can just make the black sesame caramel layer, throw in some extra white chocolate, and have the best black sesame fudge. There is really no going wrong.

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black sesame caramel walnut bars

With inspiration from Patisserie Tomoko and A Cloudy Kitchen.  See notes below on how to make a simpler, but no less delicious, black sesame fudge.

Ingredients

For the shortbread crust:

  • ½ cup (115 grams or 1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 6 tablespoons (about 50 grams) powdered sugar
  • ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
  • ⅔ cup (about 82 grams) all-purpose flour
  • ½ cup (about 63 grams) rye flour (alternatively, omit the rye flour and use more all-purpose flour, 145 grams total)
  • ¼ teaspoon kosher salt

For the black sesame caramel:

  • ¾ cup walnuts, in halves or whole
  • 1 teaspoon oil (optional)
  • ½ cup black sesame seeds
  • 1 cup (8 ounces) sweetened condensed milk
  • 1 cup (180 grams) brown sugar
  • ½ cup (115 grams or 1 stick) unsalted butter, roughly chopped
  • ½ cup (about 90 grams) white chocolate, roughly chopped or chips
  • Flaky salt, for garnish (optional)

Instructions

  1. For the shortbread:  Preheat oven to 325 degrees.  Grease an 8-inch square baking pan and line with baking or parchment paper.  Line a separate baking sheet with parchment paper.
  2. In a large mixing bowl, vigorously beat together the butter and powdered sugar until light and smooth.  Add the powdered sugar and beat until incorporated.  Add the vanilla extract and mix again until incorporated.
  3. Sift the flour and salt together.  Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture, mixing gently until it comes together into a thick dough.  Press the dough into the bottom of the baking pan into an even layer.  Refrigerate briefly until cool and firm, about 10-15 minutes.
  4. When the shortbread dough has chilled, bake at 325 for 25 to 30 minutes, or until golden on top and fragrant.  I like to take it a little bit longer for a deeper flavor and crisp texture.
  5. For the walnuts:  Meanwhile, toss the walnuts in oil if desired.  (It can give a deeper, toastier flavor with oil but is not crucial.)  Spread onto the parchment-lined baking sheet in an even layer.  Pop the walnuts into the oven as well (I like to do this in the last 12 minutes or so for the shortbread) and bake at 325 for 10-12 minutes, or until the walnuts are toasty and fragrant.  Remove both the walnuts and the shortbread from the oven and let cool.
  6. For the black sesame caramel fudge:  While the shortbread is cooling, in a dry, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat, toast the black sesame seeds for 2-4 minutes, or until they begin to smell fragrant, warm, and roasty.  A few may jump in the pan.  Take care not to burn them, which is tricky since they are black.  If they begin to smell at all burnt, remove immediately from heat.
  7. In a food processor, blend the black sesame seeds for 3-4 minutes.  The seeds will first form a sandy powder, then as you continue processing, will turn moist and begin to release oil.  When it forms the consistency of wet sand, stop processing.
  8. In a medium saucepan over low heat, combine the sweetened condensed milk, brown sugar, and butter.  Stir until combined and the sugar is dissolved.
  9. Turn up the heat to medium and continue to stir until the mixture is simmering and starts to thicken, 5-6 minutes.  Turn the heat to low and stir in the black sesame paste and the white chocolate.  Stir until the white chocolate is melted and the mixture just begins to bubble at the edges.  Remove from heat and fold in the toasted walnuts.
  10. Pour the fudge over the shortbread crust into the baking tin.  Smooth the top and sprinkle salt all over the top if desired. Place in the fridge to set, 3-4 hours or ideally overnight.  Cut into small squares to serve.  These are rich, so a 1-inch square is often just right for a treat.  Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days, or freeze for up to 6 months.

Notes

For when you just need something sweet with no fuss, the black sesame layer works all on its own as an amazing fudge.  Simply double the amount of white chocolate in the recipe above, then pour the fudge into a parchment-lined baking pan and chill until set.  For a firmer texture, let the mixture simmer just a bit longer after you melt in the white chocolate, until you start to see a tiny bit of browning.  The fudge is decadent, but the combination of intensely sweet, plus toasty black sesame, with a hit of sea salt on top, is extremely addictive.

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