What to Expect when Traveling in Atlantic Canada
First time visiting the Canadian Maritimes? Here’s what I’ve learned from over a decade of extensive travel throughout the Atlantic provinces.
If you love to armchair travel or you’re curious about traveling in Atlantic Canada, then this post is for you.
Why? Because guides and forums will give you tips like how to best navigate Nova Scotia’s 13,000km of coastline, for example, but THIS is the insider’s guide of weird and wonderful things you should really know before your trip.
The Canadian Maritimes is known for many things – seafood, beaches, idyllic fishing villages – but it’s tad quirky too! Just ask anyone who has ordered pizza in Pictou (yep, their sauce is brown) or mid-range sushi just about anywhere (it’s made with cream cheese. Don’t ask me why.)
See? there’s no warning for these, ahem, specialities.
In this post I’ll cover Getting Around, Food and Drink, and Lifestyle as I share what to expect when traveling in Atlantic Canada.
Photo by Adam Hill
What to Expect when Traveling in Atlantic Canada
Visiting Nova Scotia or any coastal part of the Atlantic provinces is one of the best Canadian travel options if you’re looking to avoid the crowds and enjoy a leisurely vacation.
Things work a little differently here than the rest of the country/continent: the pace is slower and the people friendlier. You won’t find the attitude, arrogance or aggressive energy of other provinces (I’m thinking of three in particular but not naming names).
We brake for ocean views, stop for farmer’s markets and plan road trips around a Chowder Trail (seriously!). We take leaf peeping seriously, especially when it’s fall in Cape Breton. And family camping in Nova Scotia is sacred for creating those everlasting summertime memories.
This laid-back approach does come with a few drawbacks. I’ll address the main ones in this post.
Photo by Tim Chin
Getting Around
Book EARLY
Book everything you can in advance: car rentals, excursions, accommodations, camp sites. And I mean 6-12 months in advance. These smaller provinces just don’t have the capacity for zillions of tourists and everything books up fast. At least you’ll still (mostly) have the beaches to yourself.
Three Bars? More like SOS
Cell service is spotty absolutely all over the Maritimes. Going through a valley? Zero bars. On a remote country road? No luck. Download the map to your destination and have a general sense of your route.
A positive? There’s never much delay for construction on the roads (especially compared to other provinces like Quebec).
Photo by Tim Chin
Get the cancellation insurance.
Wild weather can and will affect travel plans. Ferries can be canceled and flights grounded, especially in fall, which is our hurricane season. On the flip side, we hardly have any wildfire smoke. See, there’s always a silver lining.
Expect to Fall in Love
Disclaimer: I’m putting this early in the post because you will certainly start looking up homes for sale in the Maritimes once you have visited. Expect to have a serious talk with your significant other about life choices. (I’m serious!). Here’s a glimpse of our story: From Homestead to Seashore.
Photo by Tim Chin
Don’t trust Google. Call ahead
If a business owner feels like playing hooky and going fishing or surfing – they will absolutely do so. I’ve arrived to find a sign on the door saying ‘Closed’ when everything else indicated they should be open. Womp womp.
Keep some snacks and water in the car for when this happens (TP and hand sanitizer too). In fact, it’s often more practical to pack the Best Picnic Foods, and don’t leave things up to fate. I love my soft, collapsible cooler bag for these meals on the go.
Photo by Tim Chin
Food and Drink
Want my picks for good eats? I got you! Where to eat out in Nova Scotia should get you started.
Arrive Early for Options
In peak season in rural areas, places can sell out of food early. That’s cafes, restaurants, canteens, and food trucks. Then they close. Then you’re screwed because there’s nothing for miles around.
On the flip side, line ups are almost non-existent. As mentioned above, have a few items around for a picnic on the beach.
Don’t Expect Many Special Diet Options
Vegans, health nuts and granola moms – don’t expect to find your sprout spring rolls, and nettle shots in rural Atlantic Canada. There just isn’t the demand for it like there is on the West Coast. We can muster green smoothies, that’s about it.
The restaurants in Halifax will have plenty of options for special diets. But I suggest you embrace our garlic fingers, lobster rolls and lavish seafood boils. You only live once!
Photo by Tim Chin
Expect the Best Farmers’ Markets in the Country
In fact, plan your day around it. I’ve been to outdoor markets from coast to coast to coast from the Yukon to Victoria to Newfoundland, and the Maritime markets are the best.
Here are my favourite three in Nova Scotia. As always, go early for the best selection of handmade goods. Bring cash, reusable bags and/or a cooler bag.
Expect Establishments to close Sunday and Monday
You may get lucky here and there, but don’t expect much to be open on Sundays. Maritimers value their family time – and downtime – and very few establishments will open their doors on this day of rest.
It used to drive me crazy; now I love it. Sunday is our day to fire up the barbecue and host friends by the lake.
In rural areas, Mondays, Tuesdays, and even Wednesdays, can be iffy too. As advised above, call ahead if you’re not sure a place is open.
Carry Cash for Roadside Stands
Roadside stands in rural Nova Scotia are my favourite! You can buy honey, eggs, strawberries, veggies, CAKE, and so much more. Carry cash and expect the honesty system.
What to Expect: Maritime Lifestyle
Expect Everyone to Talk to You
People are friendly. You’ll be chatted up in the line-up for lobster rolls, across the booth at the diner, from behind the cash at the general store. Yeah, we’re friendly. Try reciprocating; you might like it.
On trails or beaches: prepare to be greeted. If you walk with headphones, prepare to be startled.
Terms of Endearment
Expect to be addressed at least once as “Sweetheart”, “Darlin’ ” or another term of endearment. It’s just how people are and it’s not meant to be belittling. It’s usually sweet little elderly ladies at the cash register; extremely harmless.
Photo by Tim Chin
Expect a S-L-O-W Pace of Life
Don’t fight it; you’ll just get frustrated. Instead, exhale and remind yourself that you’re on vacation.
In fact, if you’re road tripping, may I suggest that you don’t rush from A to B. Always take the scenic route. Allow time to get lost, pull over and explore a beach, and browse a general store.
My Favourite 3 General Stores in Nova Scotia:
Surprise Yourself: Do the Unexpected
Only in the Maritimes can you dine on the ocean floor, watch ballet by the sea or attend a festival in the root cellar capital of the world.
Go on the ghost tour (they are a-plenty. My favourite was in St Andrew’s By-the-Sea at the Algonquin Resort. Folks say Halifax is especially haunted, due to the Explosion and all. Come and see for yourself.
It’s time to embrace the weird and the wonderful.
Atlantic Canadians, what would you add? Share your favourite general store or farmers’ market in the comments.
Header photo by Adam Hill.
Original article: What to Expect when Traveling in Atlantic Canada